Jordan: travel tips

Matteo Massoni

Jordan is a fascinating land in the Middle East, a crossroads of cultures, a bridge between West and East. Jordan offers a cultural heritage of the highest level, hosting one of the 7 wonders of the world and vestiges of a glorious past, in a unique naturalistic context where the extremes of nature create unforgettable glimpses in which to get lost.

Here is a summary of my journey (with related advice) in this legendary land.

Amman

A trip to Jordan can only start from its capital, Amman. Queen Alia International Airport is approximately 30 minutes from the city and is the most important gateway to the country. Amman is a large city of about 4 million inhabitants which has expanded and developed considerably in recent years. A city with an important history, it passed from the hands of the Egyptians to that of the Greeks up to the Roman, Byzantine and Arab domination. As evidence of this, the city offers an artistic heritage of great value. A visit to the Roman Theater, the Citadel with the Temple of Hercules and a unique view of the city dominated by the white color of its houses is a must. Amman is a modern city, among the most liberal in the Arab world. Do not miss a visit to the souk, the splendid King Abdullah I Mosque and a walk in the glamorous Rainbow Street.

Northern Jordan

North of Amman we find Jerash, the ancient Gerasa. Jerash is considered the Pompeii of the East due to the importance and vastness of its ruins, witnesses of a glorious past. Gerasa was, in fact, an important Roman colony which reached its peak in the 3rd century. From the entrance to the ancient city through the South Monumental Gate one is amazed by the grandeur and magnificence of the place. Walking along the main street, the Cardo, you find yourself in the Oval Square with its columns, the Nymphaeum, the theater and magnificent mosaics in the Byzantine churches. Continuing in Northern Jordan, a visit to Ajlun Castle is a must, an imposing fortress used by Saladin’s troops to control and protect the region from the Crusaders.

Madaba, Monte Nebo and Shoubak

About 35 km south of Amman, we find Madaba, a charming town which houses an artistic jewel of great historical value, the Map of Jerusalem. The Map of Jerusalem is a vast mosaic found in the church of San Giorgio, a splendid example of Byzantine art.
A few km from Madaba we find Mount Nebo which with its 817 m of altitude allows a unique view of the Jordan valley, the dead sea and the holy land. Mount Nebo is known to be the place where, according to the Holy Scriptures, Moses had the vision of the promised land that God would have destined for his people and where Moses himself was buried. The area is now impeccably managed by the Franciscans. You can find the cruciform sculpture with intertwined copper snakes, created by the Florentine artist Gian Paolo Fantoni (reminiscent of Moses’ stick, by looking at which the people of Israel were saved from the bite of snakes encountered in the desert), the remains of a church and monastery as well as the Moses Memorial.

From Madaba also starts the road of the kings, an ancient merchant road beaten over the centuries for trade between East and West.

Proceeding south you reach Shobak and his castle in Montreal. Built at the behest of the Crusader King Baldwin I in 1115, it suffered several attacks by Saladin’s troops before succumbing in 1189 (one year after Karak). The view from the castle is definitely worth a visit.

Little Petra

About 14 km from Petra, there is an archaeological complex of great charm. The visit of Little Petra is to be done before visiting Petra (because by comparison Little Petra could be really defeated). As a first approach to the Nabataean civilization that built this complex, Little Petra will not disappoint you. Small yes but no less fascinating. Its buildings carved into the sandstone rock of the canyon were designed to house the caravans from Arabia and the Orient that stopped along the Silk Road. The visit before sunset is ideal, where the red colors of the rocks become more vivid, making the place magical.

Petra

Petra needs no introduction. A World Heritage Site, one of the 7 Wonders of the World, Petra is a magical place, one of a kind, fragile and equally imposing. I won’t dwell on what to see in Petra but I will give you some practical advice for what is a real visit experience and not a simple excursion to an archaeological site. If you prepare to go to Petra remember to prepare to walk. The site is huge and there are many routes that can be followed (following the indications of the guides and maps available at the entrance to the site). Equip yourself with water, trekking shoes and good will to be able to enjoy the visit to the fullest. The bravest ones will be able to reach the Monastery after climbing over 800 steps! The view justifies the effort as well as walking the via delle tombs and admiring the amphitheater from above. Beware of heat strokes and falls! Inside the complex you can refresh yourself in the bars and restaurants as well as stop in the Bedouin souvenir shops located along the main routes. In order to take unique photos of the Treasury from above you can (upon paying a tip to the Bedouins, generally around 5 Jordanian dinars) have them take you to the best locations for photos, but be careful how you climb!

Three nights a week, after closing time, the so-called Petra by night takes place, a sort of light and music show lasting a total of about 1h and a half, to admire the site at night at a cost of 17 Jordanian dinars ( about 20 euros).

Wadi Rum Desert

Wadi Rum, or Valley of the Moon, is one of the most spectacular places in the entire Middle East. A desert of red sand, with a Martian landscape, which also hosted the filming of cult films such as Lawrence of Arabia and The Martian. A jeep excursion through the red sands is an unmissable experience during a trip to Jordan. As well as sleeping in one of the many camps in the vast desert. For a unique experience I recommend sleeping in a bubble tent where you can enjoy the view of the starry sky in absolute comfort.

Dead Sea

To conclude a long (and tiring) trip to Jordan, my advice is to spend 1 or 2 nights in a luxury resort on the Dead Sea. We are at the lowest point on earth, approximately 430 meters below sea level. The Dead Sea is a highly salinity lake. Bathing in its waters is not only an unforgettable experience (you will remain afloat and it will be impossible or almost impossible to swim!) but it is also beneficial for your health! The same will be true for the mud that you will find in its seabed, whose wraps guarantee beneficial effects on health and beauty. The hotel that I recommend is the magnificent 5-star Hilton Dead Sea Resort & SPA. Its infinity pools, the high quality of the service and its restaurants and the unique view of the Dead Sea and Palestine will be the icing on the cake of an unforgettable trip to Jordan.

Some tips for the dead sea! Get shoes to access the water (the bottom is pebbly and muddy and it can be difficult to access the water), do not immerse your head and eyes and be careful of any skin wounds because they will burn (a lot!). Also do not stay immersed for more than 20 minutes and after the inevitable bath a fresh water shower. And above all, don’t forget the sunscreen!

Some shots:

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