Cagliari, the city of the sun
If you think of Sardinia the image that comes to mind is that of the sea, that infinite blue expanse of a thousand shades that embraces the second Mediterranean island in every point. By now the tourist is not limited only to the beaches, among the most beautiful in the world, but has finally learned to know, and want to discover, other aspects of this land as much Italian as foreign to the boot and independent and proud in its uniqueness . In these last few years the capital of Sardinia, Cagliari, has managed to be appreciated by the national and international public thanks to a wise promotion campaign that wanted to highlight the beauties that this city with a thousand-year history, but so open to modernity, contains , set among its hills that open onto a sea so blue that it merges with the sky. Cagliari is no longer just a port and airport hub to reach tourist destinations on the southern coast. It is not just a point of passage but represents the fulcrum of the holidays for many Italian and foreign tourists who reach the city of Southern Italy by sea, with cruises or ferries, or by plane, so different from other cities of the Italian Mezzogiorno, with a heart of the South and a mind of the North.
But let’s see what the Sardinian capital offers and above all what are the favorite corners of Cagliari to immerse themselves in the real city of Casteddu.
The Castle
Castello is the true historical center of the city which, however, also consists of three other districts (Stampace, Marina and Villanova). Although it does not represent the first nucleus of foundation of the city (more moved westwards around the pond of Santa Gilla where the first settlements of Santa Igia saw the light), Castello is the seat of the fortified city, surrounded by walls still visible in large part, with its Pisan foundation towers (San Pancrazio and the Elephant towers). It is the district of spiritual and temporal power, with the archiepiscopal palace and the cathedral, the viceregio palace and the city palace. Castello dominates everything and after passing through well-kept lanes, between hanging clothes and ancient aristocratic palaces, it opens up to wide views over the entire Gulf of Angels. The rule is to get lost in the narrow streets, browsing the ancient workshops of local artisans and artists.
Panorama
Cagliari stands on seven hills like Rome and Lisbon. It goes without saying that enchanting panoramas can be admired from the various hills of the city. Recently restored and open to the public, the terrace of the Bastione di Saint Remy is certainly the main viewpoint of Cagliari on which you can admire the modern city that goes to the sea and the historic districts. Ideal in the evening to enjoy the sunset on the Santa Gilla pond and observe the pink flamingos that draw elegant choreography on the city sky. On the weekend the bastion is invaded by young people who crowd the terrace of Umberto I while having a drink at the Caffè degli Spiriti or De Candia. Other panoramic points are the Bastione di Santa Croce, always in the Castello district (also often crowded with tourists and not only for a drink at the famous Libarium nostrum), the Belvedere di Buoncammino, the belvedere of Viale Europa on Monte Urpinu, the hill of San Michele and for those who want to push the fort of Sant’Ignazio to Sant’Elia and the saddle of the Devil on which with an easy excursion it is possible to overlook the entire Gulf of Cagliari admiring the Poetto beach from above and the entire skyline of Cagliari. Absolutely unmissable.
Sea
A tourist can enjoy the Sardinian sea even while staying in a large metropolitan city. Apart from the Poetto beach, whose recently enhanced promenade is besieged by sportsmen, fashionistas and families on any day of the year, Cagliari offers small paradises both within its urban area, such as Calamosca beach or the coves more hidden around the Sella del Diavolo or towards Sant’Elia, than in the surrounding area. The city, in fact, is the ideal starting point to reach paradisiacal beaches within a radius of fifty km towards the south-east or south-west where the colors of the sea of Villasimius, Costa Rei, Castiadas, Mari Pintau, Geremeas etc meet respectively . and on the other side the coast of Pula, Santa Margherita di Pula and the famous beaches of Chia and the “Caribbean” Tuerredda. Cagliari is also well connected to the beaches of Sulcis-Iglesiente and Oristanese, which can be reached in about an hour. You can discover more about the best beaches of South Sardinia here.
Aperitivo
By now cult fashion among the people of Cagliari, the international aperitif with Spritz or more traditional tasting local wines rages in the streets of the center, both in the Marina premises and in the many kiosks on the Poetto beach. Don’t miss the Spritz di Tiffany, in via Baylle in the Marina district, or a glass of wine accompanied by a selection of Sardinian salami and cheeses from Sapori di Sardegna always in the same street or from Taccas in Corso Vittorio Emanuele (also returned to Cagliari by pedestrians) thanks to the work of the last city council). For an after-dinner drink, one of the bars in Piazza Yenne, the hub of Cagliari’s nightlife, is for you. For a romantic drink near the Port, Hublot is a must to do.
Food
Cagliari will charm you also thanks to its cuisine. The neighborhood where you can taste the local cuisine is the Marina district, the historic district a stone’s throw from the port, which offers in its classic alleys of Sardinian cuisine. But Cagliari offers even more refined cuisine worthy of chefs from major European cities. It’s up to you to choose and get advice from Cagliari based on your tastes and your pockets. Worthy of note are chefs Stefano Deidda (Michelin starred) and his restaurant Dal Corsaro and the award-winning Luigi Pomata both in Viale Regina Margherita. Always in step with the times Cagliari offers for lovers of ethnic cuisine a great selection of Japanese, Chinese, Mexican, Indian restaurants but also the first restaurant of Kyrgyzstan cuisine in Italy (Nasip in via Napoli). Other cool food addresses in Cagliari are: Josto, Osteria Kobuta, Corso dodici, I Sarti del gusto and for pizzas Framento and Il Gallo D’oro.
Green
The city of Cagliari offers many green spaces to spend the hot summer hours cool or to appreciate the change of seasons in autumn and spring. The Monte Urpinu park is an oasis of peace that stands on the homonymous hill. Among its tree-lined avenues and ponds it is easy to come across swans, ducks, peacocks and vestiges of the Second World War such as forts and bunkers.
Another green space frequented by the people of Cagliari is the park of Monte Claro, a large expanse of greenery and jogging and sports paths of 250 thousand square meters in the park of the former asylum of Villa Clara. Smaller but equally fascinating is the park of Terramaini where you can see some flamingos in its pond, the park of the Ex Vetreria in Pirri or the hill of San Michele from which you can enjoy a 360 degree view of the city and the hinterland as well as the well preserved namesake castle often home to exhibitions and shows. For a walk in the center among the greenery one cannot fail to mention the public gardens with its elegant avenues and ancient trees that lead to the Municipal Art Gallery, one of the museum’s jewels in the city. A few steps from the Basilica of Bonaria and the monumental cemetery of the same name, the park of Bonaria is worthy of note. With stairs and boulevards uphill it offers glimpses of the city of Cagliari on one side and the sea on the other on the old city for photos from postcard. For botanical lovers, do not miss a tour of the botanical garden, one of the largest in Europe, managed by the University of Cagliari, offers a unique variety of plants in the Mediterranean. Last but not least, the park of Molentargius, a vast territory shared by the municipalities of Cagliari and Quartu Sant’Elena, habitat of pink flamingos and a unique flora and fauna in the world, among the old salt pans giving their backs to the city and opening towards the Poetto beach. Less green but equally fascinating, the Japaneseizing “Park of Music“ stands between the Lyric theater, the Conservatory and the modern T Hotel.
Modernity
Cagliari is the center of a vast metropolitan area of about half a million people. It has always been the nerve center of an island which, due to its history and position, has always been used to doing it alone and imposing its rhythms and fashions. Cagliari is a small capital, a crossroads of peoples and trends. It offers an efficient and avant-garde public transport system, free Wi-Fi in various hotspots, hosts international cultural and sporting events and with its University it is a meeting point for students from all over the island and beyond.
Culture
Cagliari is not just sea. The city as the capital of a land with a thousand-year history contains in its museums the testimonies of the past of the Sardinian island. A tour of the museum citadel is essential, where you can appreciate the collections of the National Archaeological Museum with its finds from the Nuragic age (such as the famous bronzes) and the giant guests of Monte Prama. Do not miss the collection of the National Art Gallery and the magnificent anatomical waxes of Susini. The cultural heritage of the city is enriched with temporary exhibitions in various art galleries, such as the EXmà, the old slaughterhouse in the city transformed into an art and events workshop, or the Lazzaretto in Sant’Elia. The artistic wealth of Cagliari is also offered by the many churches in the city, testimony to the devotion of the Sardinian people and the strategic role of the church in this city too. Do not miss the baroque San Michele in Stampace, the majestic church of Sant’Anna, the most intimate church of Sant’Efisio which houses the simulacrum of the saint celebrated by a grandiose festival from 1 to 4 May each year, the inevitable Basilica of Our Lady of Bonaria, the Cathedral of Santa Maria etc. etc.
Sport
Headquarters of Cagliari Calcio, whose temporary stadium, Sardegna Arena, is now ready for use pending the complete dismantling of the former Sant’Elia and construction of the new definitive stadium, Cagliari has been the capital of sport in 2017, recognition won thanks to the attention to the fitness and well-being that the city shows. Just take a ride on any day of the year along the Poetto promenade to notice the interest of Cagliari in sports. Cyclists, runners, triathletes etc. they keep fit in the various parks of the city returned to Cagliari in recent years. The renewed sports fields on the Terrapieno or the walk from the Ichnusa pier to Sant’Elia are two more of the many places where people from Cagliari love to spend their free time in the open air.
Many other pages could be written about Cagliari and the opportunities it offers. But this point is up to you to book a plane ticket (the Elmas airport is well connected all year round both by low cost carriers and not by numerous cities in Italy and Europe) and to see for yourself the beauty of this city for too long Cinderella of Italy and finally appreciated and valued.
What more can I say… A si biri in Casteddu!